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What do you tune?
We specialize in Competition and Race engines of most types, primarily forced induction. We have tuned for racers that have competed at the Bonneville Salt Flats, West Coast Drag Racing like PSCA and SCSN, various Drift Series, Off Road such as hill climbs, and Ultra 4 events, local Drag Racing, and University FSAE Teams. We have even tuned for Jet/River Boat Racers and Experimental/Home Built Aircraft. The chassis dyno is ideal for an engine installed in a vehicle with wheels. We can also arrange Engine Dyno tuning sessions through Dyno Plus Services if it's easier for you. Email us for details.

What Engine Management Systems Can you Work With?
Most systems work on very similar principals, making the choice of system less important than in was. We have worked with most common systems, a short list is: Accel, AEM, Autronic, BigStuff3, EcuMaster, Emtron ,FAST, Haltech, Hondata, Link, Megasquirt, MoTec, and probably some I have forgotten. We also use flash tools for domestics, like Diablo (CMR), HP Tuners, EFI Live and a few others and still have our ancient Chip burning hardware. Email us with your needs if not listed here.

How long does it take, and why is the "Flat Rate" pricing gone?
A typical tune should take 3 to 5 hours. The problem with flat rate became that combinations were getting more complicated, tuning more in depth, and often other problems needed to be addressed if something was over looked in the build. Also, new dyno equipment has many more features and sensors, and hook up and tear down takes longer.

What Makes Your Dyno so Kick Ass?
It's a Mainline Dynolog system! We didn't buy something cheap, we bought what we consider the best. The rollers are very light, we can hit extremely low load conditions, and "cells". The Eddie Current brakes are under precise control, and we can hit virtually any load point, or even hold an engine at constant rpm at WOT. The dyno can integrate directly with over 100 different ECU's. It has a Injector dead time finder function, if yours didn't come with specs. It will plot TORQUE, versus ECU timing at constant RPM and throttle or MAP. It is the first of its kind in Canada, and the UPGRADE ALONE cost more than "low rent" dynos some newbies use and charge you for. (Actually, it is the second one in Canada, we also own a single retarder model ;) ).

Our system has upto 8 channel wideband, 12 channel EGT, Differential Fuel Flow, Fuel Pressure and Temperature, 2 Universal Pressure channels, Oil Pan Temperature, Oil Temperature, 2 Channel voltage logging, 2 channel Duty Cycle, Frequency and the ability to add almost anything over Canbus, including logging your own ECU or Racepak to the Dyno. We also have some expensive "secret" equipment you won't generally find outside the OEM's or Universities.

Does The Brand/Type of the Equipment Matter?
Ask yourself, if your home contractor showed up with low end "discount" tools, what would you think about his skill versus showing up with Dewalt, Bosch or Milwaukee? Mainline equipment is now in places like EFI University, T1 Racing Development. No more excuses. Professional results, require professional equipment.

What do I need to bring?

Bring everything you want to try, and the special tools you may require for your particular car. Bring you and the car, make sure you have enough fuel in it.

What preparation should I do?
Check your tire pressure, tire condition (if your tires are down to wear bars anywhere along the tread, you wil be turned away, AND charged the minimum fee! You cannot seriously expect us to operate a worn tire, at 150mph on a steel roller). Check ALL oil and fluid levels. Make sure your tires are in good shape. Check for leaks, smoke, and any mechanical problems. We prefer a fairly clean vehicle, especially underneath since we need to strap it down. Make sure all vacuum lines are solid, mass air flow sensor clean, new fuel filters. See more specific recommendations below.

Can you dyno front wheel drive cars?
Yes, of course.

Can you dyno AWD/4wd cars/trucks?
Some. The dyno is 2WD, but cars/trucks with selectable drive modes where one set of drive axles can be switched off will work. Other vehicles that have a removable prop shaft can also be tested. Full time AWD cars cannot be tested on our dyno YET (hopefully in 2018).

Do I Need a "Catch Can"?
ABSOLUTELY. Recirculated crank case pressure, and oil fumes have NO PLACE going back into the intake manifold. ALL performance engines should vent this to atmosphere, or at the very least, have a catch can. Oil has almost ZERO octane, and even a little in the intake is enough to cost power, or destroy an engine.

Did you Move?
Yes, we are about 15 minutes east of Calgary.

Do you Street Tune?
Don't be ridiculous! haha.

Do you accept credit cards, checks, interac?
Possibly. We can take credit cards, and we can take a check. No Interac however.

Can I compare power numbers to the XYZ dyno at shop ABC?
NOPE!!! They are all different it seems. There are dynos like Dynojet, older models reading upwards of 11% to 13% more, newer models about 5% more, and I've witnessed other brands in the province show as much as 20% more than our machine. The dyno is a tuning tool. It needs precise load control, data acquisition, and be repeatable. If we see "ripples" in our power curve, we know it's real, and not just something to apply "smoothing factor 5" to!

I have heard that too much load is bad for my engine....is this true?
As long as thermal loading is kept in mind, no. We try and simulate every load condition you will see in real life. The tune should be done on the dyno, and not require an additional "touch up" for the course. Only exception is typically "cold start" which we cannot accurately simulate with all tunes.

My automatic equipped vehicle is showing very low HP numbers....why?
Automatic transmission and non lock-up torque converters "use" a lot of power! We are finding anywhere from 15 to 25% less power than a vehicle with a similar engine but with a standard transmission. Superflow did a test in fact where they put a motor on an engine dyno, and then put it in a car and did a rear wheel horsepower test with an auto trans, and non lock-up converter, and lost 26% of their power!

Does It Matter What Gear Runs are Made In?
Not for the tuning part. We will use various gears to hit as many load conditions as possible. For the sake of consistency, traction, etc, we prefer to make power "sweep" tests and baselines in a gear as close as 1 to 1 ratio as possible.

Corrected or Uncorrected, That is the question!
We are at ~3300 feet above sea level. The air is less dense. ALL our results are typically SAE corrected. The normal SAE formulas are not intended to cover all engines, elevations etc.. We have found, Naturally Aspirated combinations the correction is about right, supercharged combos are slightly UNDER corrected, and Turbo combos slightly over corrected (depending on boost).

What Spark Plugs Do you Prefer?
Cold! The brief explanation on heat range is that for a "street" car you want the minimum spark plug temperature that still can be hot enough to "self clean" the spark plug. Like a Self Cleaning Oven. But that is too hot for a competition vehicle, so we reccomend the coldest plug that will last for your event without fouling. We have used many NGK 11 Plugs (coldest of the NGK's) that haven't fouled between oil changes. Plugs are cheap, engines are expensive. If you run Iridium, we definitely recommend a recessed (non projected) tip, and one step colder than your normal copper.

What's the best pump fuel? What about Ethanol/Methanol?
Husky 94 has proven that it will tolerate the most boost and timing. It Seems Shell 91 is more consistent lately. Ethanol is magic, and the cheapest "race fuel" you will find. If you use Ethanol, plan your fuel system 60% bigger than gasoline. We do not tune Methanol Fueled engines on the Chassis Dyno. (Methanol as fuel, we are not talking about "water/methanol injection"). Methanol is a cumulative poison, and should not be used indoors.

Does our pump gas really vary that much?
Absolutely. Recent example, I was tuning a ~400 hp SRT4. The tune was 95% complete when we started to run a little low on gas. I start my "sweep" tests at wide open throttle, full load. With this car, this was about 2500 rpm and 4 psi at that point. I hold it full throttle for a second or 2 until boost stabilizes, then "release" the dyno to make the sweep tests. Everything was perfect to this point. Made 10 runs to then, stabilized temperatures before runs. The customer came back with a Jerry can of 94 Octane, same brand as was in the tank. He tops it up. The very next run, the car not only knocked during the pull, it also knocked during the steady period just prior to the run. It required 2-3 degrees retard to "fix".

My buddy says you've tuned over 5000 vehicles. Is that true?
I don't honestly know. 95% of our tunes start from scratch, and after a recent hard drive failure, I attempted to reconcile all tune files onto a back-up drive. I am confident in saying, it has been over 3000 in our long history based on file/date counts, but never actually kept count.

 

PREP! Lets start with general common sense stuff:

Compression Check is a great idea. Check for vacuum leaks etc. Do your best to make sure the car is in good mechanical condition.

Tires:
Make sure there is tread left! No bulges or separation.
Pump em up, 35 to 40 psi for street type tires.

Oil and Fluids: 
Check engine, trans, differential, coolant levels.

Spark Plugs:
For most applications, the coldest you can find in a regular copper or nickel. Avoid platinum, Iridium etc. If the car runs badly, bring a spare set.

Alignment:
Weirdness in alignment will wear your tires, and affect your power numbers. If you have mega camber, it will ride the inside edge, scrub off power, might have poor traction on the rollers if you are making good power, and may overheat the inside of your tire. Avoid it if you can.

Ride Height:
If your tires almost rub your fenders just sitting still, they will definitely rub when the car is strapped down. Crank up the coil-overs if you got 'em, or put on your stock rims and tires to clear.

Exhaust System:
Make sure there are NO leaks. Any leak before where the O2 sensor wideband will go will make the car untunable. Its 2017, we prefer mufflers (they don't hurt power).

Fuel System
•Check for fuel leaks.
•If your fuel pressure regulator is adjustable, set for 3bar (43.5 psi, this is base pressure, set with the pump or car running, and the vacuum line off) for most applications. Make sure that you have a solid vacuum source that is NOT shared with anything else, like blow off valves, your boost gauge etc. The ONLY thing that your regulator vacuum line can be shared with is a MAP sensor.
•Don't show up with an unchanged 15 year old fuel filter. They are cheap, change them every season.

Injectors:
If you buy aftermarket injectors, bring the flow sheet, and their "dead time" specs. If you are cheap like me, and bought some unknown crap, or have no idea what you bought off ebay, or someone cut the diffuser plate off a set of injector to increase flow, yes, I can still tune them if you have a stand alone EFI system, but it might be a bigger PITA. I can now flow test, and characterize your injectors for a fee, but I do no service or clean them. For that, we use and recommend @Performance Fuel Injection in High River.

Injector size:
Make sure you have enough injector for your realistic power goals. I will give you a very rough guide for what to expect on our dyno, on gasoline (Pure Ethanol will require about 60% more flow for the same power):
• Every CC is good for about 0.15 hp. Total all your injector flow rates, multiply by 0.15, and that will be roughly your maximum hp. Example 1) 400cc injectors x 4 cylinders =1600cc total. 1600 x 0.15 = 240hp. Example 2) 1000cc Injectors x 8 cylinders = 8000cc fuel. 8000 x 0.15 = 1200hp.
• Every lb/hr fuel is good for about 1.6 hp . Same as above, total your injectors, multiply by 1.6. Example 3) 83 lb/hr x 6 cylinders = 498 lb/hr. Take the 498 x 1.6 = 796hp.

Fuel Pumps: 
at a standard base pressure of 3bar (43.5 psi), and at around 20 psi boost;
•Walboro 255lph will get you around 360 to 400hp.
•Aeromotive 340lph will get you around 500hp.
•Walboro 400 will get you about 580hp.
Low boost, or naturally aspirated, the pumps will get you further, they all vary, but 20% more is not uncommon.

Fuel Pump Wiring: 
If you have an upgraded pump, you probably need upgraded wiring. Stock 15 year old wiring, with a 340lph pump, and your voltage might be 10 volts under load.
•Your particular vehicle maybe different, but usually the easiest upgrade is a relay located near your pump. The stock wiring then activates the relay, you run new 12 gauge or preferably 10 gauge power and ground, preferably to the battery, and properly fused.

Crank Case Ventilation. 
You should always have this upgraded from stock. Oil in the intake, intake pipes, intercooler etc will cause knock, and destroy your motor. Oil has practically zero octane, and has no place in the combustion space. Make sure you have GOOD, as large as possible vent lines from your valve covers, valley, or wherever your engine has them, to a catch can, or a GOOD oil air separator.

Battery and Charging system:
• Grounds. Make sure you are grounded very well. If you have relocated your battery to the trunk, it is preferable that you run the ground all the way forward to your engine block. If you don't want to do that, at least to a roll cage, or frame of the car. 
•Battery MUST be good, and hold a charge. If it constantly needs a boost, it's probably bad.
•Alternator should be newer, and tested for output, a noisy alternator will also mess up aftermarket EFI, and cause tuning issues.

General EFI:
MAP Sensor - as a general rule, try and use an OEM sensor, and avoid the chinese crap, the omni powers etc. For higher ranges If you can use a factory GM, Dodge etc, great. For even higher boost, use a quality one from SSI, TI, Honeywell, motorolla etc. Always give this a dedicated vacuum source, and don't "T" a bunch of other crap. The only thing that you can "T" in with a MAP sensor, is the line to the fuel pressure regulator.

MAF Sensors - if it's a used unit, clean it with an air intake or mass air cleaner. Be mindful of plumbing. You ideally want a very straight, and same size pipe to and from your maf, for as long as possible. As an example, you definitely don't want a 4" MAF, with 3" piping, and a sudden 4-3 transition just before or after the maf.

Also, if you have a blow off valve, and a MAF, ideally, the BOV should be recirculated, or before the maf if possible. The reason is, if the MAF has measure the airflow, and then your BOV dumps it off, you will have tune issues.

IAT Sensors - Any aftermarket EFI system installation must include a rapid response Inlet Air Temperature Sensor. The most common is the regular GM open element IAT. Many factory IAT sensors, especially in cars with MAF sensors, have a full metal IAT which will heat soak (ie, RB26, 2jz etc), and are very slow to respond. They typically show you manifold temperature, rather than air temperature. The sensor must also be located after the intercooler.

Wideband Sensor - makes the tune go quicker if its output is wired into your aftermarket ECU. To prevent discrepancy between wideband and ECU readings, try and have the widebands power and ground at the same place as the ECU.

Water/Methanol Injection - 
Lets face it, Alberta gas sucks lately. There was a time you could do almost anything on Mohawk 94, alas, that seems to be no longer  . A well tuned "happy motor" will almost always lose power with water methanol, UNLESS you compensate it by leaning it out, and adding timing. So for the most part "less is more", and here are some general guidelines keeping this in mind:
•Water will absorb about 2.5x more heat than equivalent cc of methanol. So, you can run less, for equivalent combustion cooling.
•Most of the cooling occurs in the combustion space.
•I recommend a 70/30 water/methanol mix for most "mild" applications.
•You want the nozzle as high in the system as possible, and preferably before the IAT sensor if your kit does not have a "fail safe".

-nozzle sizing- 
300hp about 200cc/min
400hp about 275cc/min
500hp about 350cc/min
600hp about 400cc/min
750hp about 500cc/min

This is for mild combos, not high compression or very high boost. If you have turbocharged a higher compression motor, or are trying to run very high boost on pump gas, or are running 50/50 or more methanol, you can increase these suggestion by 30% or more, but you may then need a progressive controller.